Slow Food Movement in the Cordilleras: Preserving Heritage Food and Culture

“Food is the expression of the deep relation of the Cordillera people with the land, being rooted in the land which is the source of our food and of our life. What is most important is for us to document these simple recipes, cook the food using natural ingredients, and transmit this knowledge of our indigenous food culture to the younger generation so that it will not be lost,”  Jill Cariño,  Convenor at the Philippine Task Force for Indigenous Peoples Rights (TFIP)

Jill Cariño’s words during the presentation of the Heirloom Recipes Book with the TFIP and the Partners for Indigenous Knowledge Philippines (PIKP) at the World Expo Food Expo in 2019 typifies the advocacy of the Slow Food Movement.

Slow Food International envisions a world where all people get access to and enjoy “food that is good for them, good for those who grow it and good for the planet.” This approach is based on the concept that food is good (quality, flavorsome, and healthy), clean (production does not harm the environment), and fair (accessible prices for consumers and fair conditions and pay for producers).

Pasil Kalinga Community: The First Indigenous Slow Food Community in the Philippines

In 2010, the Pasil Kalinga Slow Food Community had their first experience of Terra Madre – an international gastronomy exhibition that takes place every two years in Turin that brings together food producers and artisans from around the world.  Since then they became a fixture at the Terra Madre events and continue carrying on the banner of Slow Food and its philosophy in their locality.

After a decade of dedicated work in Slow Food, the Pasil Kalinga Indigenous Slow Food Community was officially inaugurated in 2019. This means that the 138 members of Pasil’s rice-growing community that grows indigenous rice varieties will be gathered under one umbrella and is part of the Slow Food network.  The rice varieties grown by the communities in high-elevation terraces include Chong-ak or Unoy (named after the association of female rice farmers, Unoy Pasil Terrace Association).

The Pasil Kalinga Indigenous Slow Food Community holds traditional knowledge in seed selection, seed preservation, and traditional growing methods.

Food and Tourism for Mountain Development Project

In 2020, the Food and Tourism for Mountain Development project was launched by the Department of Tourism, Slow Food, and the Mountain Partnership Secretariat of the United Nations Food and Agricultural Organization. According to Agriculture Monthly, the project’s goals include identifying and enlisting high-quality products in the voluntary labeling scheme for mountain products and training small-scale producers in agroecological and Slow Food practices. Support will be provided to them through connections to chefs, tourism service providers, and specialized food businesses outlets in the country.

All these efforts also contribute to the Cordillera Culinary Journey to the public initiated by the Department of Tourism-Cordillera Administrative Region (DoT-CAR). This event centers on discovering and highlighting local cuisine in every province in the Cordillera for tourist guests. The “Mangan Taku” (Let’s Eat) campaign is the first launch in connection to this as well as the Department of Tourism CAR’s program on Green Tourism Circuits and Tours.