I’m a sucker for smoked food. Ever since I saw that “House of Cards” episode in 2011 where then-Democratic congressman Frank Underwood visited this smoked BBQ restaurant that he usually frequents, I knew there was something about the dish that makes people come back for more. Sure, I’m familiar with the Baguio smoked dish Kiniing, but my cravings only took me as far as Manila (which, by the way, underwhelmed me)—that is, until The HNGRY Project Gastropub came into the picture.
The place boasts of a very simple set-up. It’s warmly lit by lights at night; but during the day, it’s like a tranquil house in a quiet neighborhood. The simple smoker grill is the first thing you’d see—almost as if showing you what you’re going to be in for once you sit down for a meal.
Mark Jerome and Chris Oplindo, the duo behind The HNGRY Project Gastropub, knew that something was missing in Baguio—and that’s the tasty goodness of authentic smoked dish of Texas, USA. They wanted to put up a place where people can experience what his friend in Texas felt while training to make smoked ribs and barbecue. HNGRY Project was borne out of that space that just had to be filled.
It’s a fairly young restaurant, opening just last November 2018. But it doesn’t change the fact that this is where you can taste a little bit of that Texan treat. They have a vast repertoire of smoked dishes, with many created out of sheer curiosity for combining stuff that could work (and it did!).
Food preparation is where Mark and Chris put in their best to make it special. Most of what they serve is prepared beforehand, with 6 to 12-hours as a meal prep window before it makes its way onto your table. The wood and marinade that they use are also carefully selected to complement the meat’s time in the smoker. With smoked dishes done the Texan way, it makes sense for them to invest time and love to what they’re serving.
We were all excited to try something new that day since most of us haven’t tried smoked dishes like these before. As for me, I was expecting something better than the bootleg version of it that I tasted somewhere in Manila.
The HNGRY Project Gastropub’s Awesome Smokey Taste
Mark did a demo on how they prepare the smoker by using coconut husks to stoke the flames. Apparently, using husks instead of charcoal can bring out more flavor from the marinated piece of meat. And man did it ring true! Currently, The HNGRY Project Gastropub offers seven main dishes of the smoked variety. As what their name implies, it’s indeed a project to appease the famished soul.
First off, we’ve got the Smoked Ribs. Of course, ribs are something that we’ve been trying out ever since this heavenly piece of meat became a Baguio hit. But HNGRY Project’s take on this common dish is simple—it’s cooked over coconut husk embers for 10 to 12 hours and served with an impressive taste that easily transports you to food heaven. One of our team members also likened it to the feeling of eating at a cañao gathering, only this time; the taste is enhanced by that Texas feel. It’s like a marriage of two cultures in one plate. A single serving of the Smoked Ribs costs P249 while ordering it whole is at P448.
And then we’ve got the Smoked Chicken and Longanisa. I’m sure we’ve all tried different iterations of grilled or smoked chicken at some point, but The HNGRY Project’s take on these two combinations make it a fresh experience. If you want to have a different spin on something you’ve been having for a long time, the Smoked Chicken and Longanisa will bring that much-needed change of taste. A single order for the Smoked Chicken costs P135 while the whole order is at P350. The Smoked Longanisa, on the other hand, is at P105 and P230 for single and whole orders respectively.
Here comes one of my favorites from their platter—the all-foreign Smoked Sisig. When Mark first mentioned the dish to us, I had to do the white man blinking GIF because of how weird it sounds. Smoked. Sisig. How does that even work? But all my questions and bewilderment were answered by one sizzling pile of sisig delight. It turns out that the meat and other ingredients used in the dish were also smoked for hours too. Think of the usual sisig taste. Then imagine having a smoky tinge to it and a more umami kind of feeling. That’s how freakin’ heavenly the Smoked Sisig is. It’s no doubt that it’s one of The HNGRY Project’s bestsellers. And with food as good as this, it also comes with a friendly price at only P135.
The New Smokin’ Contenders
The HNGRY Project Gastropub also has three new menu additions that made our whole dining experience special. The Chili Con Short Ribs (185) is a Tex-Mex delight spruced up with the distinct taste of the smoked short ribs. It comes in a big serving of adequately-spiced chili and beans, with the overwhelming taste of the short ribs. It’s the lovechild of the Smoked Ribs and Mexican chili. It’s truly something that would make you faint out of pure bliss and satisfaction.
Finally, we have the Porterhouse Steak (P249), which is a massive slab of meat that’s also smoked for 10 to 12 hours. But you don’t just get a slab here. You get your money’s worth because of the fullness you’ll get after a few bites. The meat is cooked very well that you don’t even need a knife to slice and dice through it. The richness of the Porterhouse Steak is one that doesn’t taste a bit “rocky” like how the other places do it. I personally think that if you’re coming over to The HNGRY Project to try this out for lunch or dinner, don’t eat merienda or try skipping one meal. Trust me, this is the mothership.
HONORABLE MENTIONS: They also make their own salad dressing, which I personally love because I absolutely hate it when you’re eating something so good and have to use fake-ass sauce that you can buy anywhere. Plus, they have their own chili sauce mix that makes you want to punch a wall because of how strong and spicy it tastes. It’s like resting your tongue on the fiery walls of hell.
The HNGRY Project Gastropub: Overall Verdict
Did I get the Frank Underwood “House of Cards” smoked food experience? I didn’t. Instead, I got my OWN experience of how Texas smoked dishes taste like and it made up for that shitty Manila experience. It’s something that I couldn’t even forget until now. The experience lingers well enough for me to taste it in my sleep! I’m not going to sweet talk you into trying out The HNGRY Project Gastropub because there’s no need for me to. I’m confident enough to say that Mark and his team can bring you the same experience that we had.
I think they did the stellar work of bringing us something that hasn’t been done or rarely ever tasted before. We’d usually equate smoked dishes with hot or beachy places, but little did I know that it could actually make Baguio more homey with what The HNGRY Project Gastropub has to offer. Not only did they introduce something new and fresh to my flesh-eating craving, but they also made themselves my instant go-to place for pigging out and messing myself up through a food coma.
For what it’s worth, The HNGRY Project perfectly nails the smoked Texan taste—and even makes it better for you.
Check them out on Facebook! They’re located at 363 Legarda Road, Baguio City (near Europa Condominiums and just beside LOL Comedy Bar).